YOU don’t have to jet off to foreign climes to find huge sandy beaches, miles of glorious rugged coastline and stunning wildlife.
Pembrokeshire, in south-west Wales, offers all this and more and when the sun is shining it can rival Mediterranean or even New Zealand resorts. The county is only 20 miles from north to south, but its coastline of soaring cliffs, small sandy coves and glorious, award-winning golden beaches meanders for about 200 miles.
The National Geographic magazine rates it as one of the top three most beautiful coastal environments in the world.
Offshore, the islands are precious wildlife reserves, while inland the peaceful estuaries and wooded valleys contrast with the dramatic Preseli Hills setting the scene for a huge range of fun and challenging activities.
Andy Hollis picks his best from a base in Britain’s smallest city, St Davids.
Best for wildlife lovers
Whales, dolphins, porpoises and seals can all be seen along the coast, particularly in the north at Cardigan Bay. However, to see coastal birds you need to visit one of the islands. Trips run from April to October, but are weather dependent. Ramsay is the nearest to St David’s and boats leave throughout the day from St Justinians, about 2 miles away.
To see puffins you need to head to Skomer from April to August. Only one boat makes the 15-minute trip from Martin’s Haven, about an hour’s drive from St Davids, and you need to leave early in the morning. The ticket office opens at 8am and the first of three daily trips leaves at 10am, but on a fine day the queue can be snaking down the road by 7am.
Your patience will be justly rewarded as the island is teeming with the colourful birds that come right up to you with a beak full of sandeels.
Best for history buffs
Since 1093 Pembroke Castle has towered over Millford Haven offering superb views over the estuary.
Learn about its tumultuous past while exploring its narrow stairways, corridors and towers. See where Henry VII, the founder of the Tudor dynasty, was born to his 13-year-old mother.
In St David’s you can get taste of what life was like in medieval times by visiting the Bishop’s Palace. One of the roles of the office was to lay on huge feasts for visitors, and you will be moved by the grim reality of how the servants lived.
The last invasion of mainland Britain took place in Pembrokeshire in 1797 when 1,200 French conscripts landed near Fishguard. The French surrender three days later is commemorated in the last invasion tapestry on display in the town.
Best for children (and childish adults)
At Manor Farm Wildlife Park discover how TV’s Anna Ryder Richardson did a Changing Rooms on a run-down zoo turning into a haven for wildlife. Learn how Steve the Gibbon braved the great outdoors to start a family after years of solitary confinement.
Get up close and personal to the animals by shadowing a keeper. During this 2-hour experience you can feed wallabies, meerkats, gibbons and lemurs as well as helping out with other jobs such as brushing the tapirs.
Best for laying your head
Penrhiw Hotel is a ten-minute walk from the heart of St David’s and offers unique 5-star luxury.
Actor Anthony Hopkins spent last Christmas with his family at this modernized former priory, which can be rented in its entirety or by the room. It is like a plush country home in a fabulous setting where you can feel both independent and pampered.
Board is on bed-and-breakfast basis, although there is a well-stocked fridge you can help yourself too, and dinner can be cooked for you. The staff presence it minimal, although the House Manager is only a phone call away to help with even your smallest needs.
Seven stylish bedrooms are decorated in rich chocolate browns and calming creams and with bathrooms designed by contemporary designer Philippe Starck.
The hotel can be rented in its entirety or on a room-by-room basis. Doubles from £180 per night (two sharing), B&B.
Best for film buffs
Follow in Harry Potter’s footsteps at Freshwater West beach, near Pembroke, which was where Dobby’s shell cottage was built for the Deathly Hallows. Scenes from Robin Hood starring Russell Crowe were also filmed there.
At the southern car park, Café Mor specialises in street food, such as lobster burger, with ingredients foraged from the seashore.
Best for active types
It’s not just serious walkers that can tackle the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path. This challenging trail would take about 2 weeks to stomp, but it’s easy to tackle short sections. Take the Coastal Bus Services as far as you like, and walk back at your own pace. Timetables are at www.pembrokeshire.gov.uk/coastbus.
For those that want to set foot on the cliff faces try climbing or coasteering, which is scrambling along the cliffs at sea level jumping into the water as necessary
And if you actually want to take to the water there are some great surfing or kite-surfing beaches, or calmer waters for kayaking or paddleboarding.
Divers can explore the marine reserves and ancient wrecks, while picturesque harbours are ideal for yachting and fishing.
Best for eating and drinking
Cwtch, meaning to snuggle, is an aptly named restaurant in St David’s with a relaxed, informal and cosy atmosphere.
It serves uncomplicated dishes packed with flavor made from local produce which varies with the season. It was voted Best Restaurant in Wales by readers of the 2012 Good Food Guide.
Outside the city, the Fish & Chip Bistro and the pub food offered at The Sloop Inn in the pretty fishing village of Porthgain are well worth the 30-minute drive.
The Druidstone Hotel has a very bohemian feel and is perched right on the edge of the cliffs with a garden overlooking St Brides Bay.
A quirky pub made of corrugated iron, the Tafarn Sinc at Rosebush, has sawdust on the floor and serves real ale.
Getting there:
First Great Western offer Advance Single fares between London Paddington and Swansea from £15.50. For the best value tickets and offers buy before you board at www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk or telephone 08457 000125. Then take an Arriva Trains’ service (www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk) to Harverfordwest. St Davids is then about a 40-minute drive.
More information
Penrhiw Hotel, www.penrhiwhotel.com, Tel: 07896 330869.
Prices from £180 B&B per night for two sharing (low season) excluding VAT.
Skomer boat trip: Dale Sailing visit www.pembrokeshire-islands.co.uk, Tel: 01646 603123 / 603110 / 603109.
Pembroke Castle: www.pembroke-castle.co.uk, Tel: 01646 681510.
Manor House Wildlife Park Zoo Keeper Experience, www.manorhousewildlifepark.co.uk, Tel: 01646 651201.
Cwtch restaurant, St Davids, www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk, Tel: 01437 720491.
The Shed, www.theshedporthgain.co.uk, Tel: 01348 831518.
The Sloop Inn, www.sloop.co.uk , Tel: 01348 831449.
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